Shri Chennakeshava Swamy Temple, Beluru - Hassan, Karnataka

Experienced: May 2023

Unique Aspects

• Every Pillar inside the temple has unique 3D carvings. Narasimha pillar is the best among all. Exemplifies exceptional craftsmanship with detailed carvings.
• Unesco World Heritage Status.
• One of the marvels at Belur Temple is a freestanding pillar in the courtyard that stands without a direct connection to the ground. This engineering feat, often referred to as the "floating pillar" or "pillar on a point," demonstrates the advanced architectural prowess of the Hoysala craftsmen.
• High level of detailing in all elements reflects superior craftsmanship. Pillars bear unique designs and narratives showcasing sculptors' skills.

The Chennakesava Temple in Belur is truly remarkable. It's a must-visit if you're in Karnataka or nearby states in India. Whether you love history or sculptures, you'll be amazed by its beauty and the many detailed sculptures throughout the temple. The Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana commissioned the Chennakesava Temple in 1117 AD, following a significant victory in 1116 AD. The construction spanned 103 years over three generations. Despite facing damage and plundering in various wars, the temple has been consistently rebuilt and repaired, maintaining its impressive condition. Over time, the complex has seen both additions and removals. For instance, in the late 19th century, the collapsing tower above the sanctum was removed to preserve the lower levels and was never replaced. As its name suggests, the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, with "Chenna" meaning handsome or beautiful and "Kesava" referring to Lord Vishnu.

The current gopuram (tower) at the temple complex was added during the rule of Harihara II in the Vijayanagara Empire. The Deepa Stambha, or Lamp Pillar, traces its origins back to the Hoysala dynasty. Its authenticity is confirmed by the star-shaped foundation it rests upon. What's truly remarkable about this pillar is that it stands on its own weight without any external support. One can easily pass a kerchief or a piece of paper through the gap between the pillar and the platform, a small opening created because the pillar is slightly raised on one side.

Belur, also known as Beluhur, Velur, or Velapura in ancient inscriptions and medieval texts, served as the early capital of the Hoysala kings. The Hoysala period in South Indian history started around 1000 CE and lasted until 1346 CE. The city held such significance for the Hoysalas that it was often described as the "earthly Vaikuntha," referring to Vishnu's abode. During this time, they constructed approximately 1,500 temples in 958 locations.

Somayya Danayaka, during the rule of Veera Ballala III (1292–1343), added a high wall around the temple, along with a wood-and-brick gateway and doors, for security. The original temple was without a boundary wall, and the main mandapa was open for devotees to witness and appreciate the intricate carvings inside. Additionally, the open mandapa was covered with perforated stone screens. While these new screens dimmed the interior, making it challenging to see the artwork, they allowed enough light for the darshana of the garbha griya.

The original tower, as suggested by inscriptions, was made of a combination of wood, brick, and mortar, and it was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The main temple, which originally had a shikara (superstructure tower), now appears flat as the tower is missing. The Vijayanagara Empire sponsored the addition of smaller shrines dedicated to goddesses and the Naganayakana mandapa within the temple complex. These were constructed by collecting the war ruins of other demolished temples in the Belur area and reusing them. The temple premises were again damaged after the destruction of the Vijayanagara Empire by a coalition of Sultanates. The first repairs were done in 1709, followed by additions in 1717 and 1736. In 1774, during a period when Hyder Ali was the de facto ruler on behalf of the Wadiyar dynasty, the temple was repaired by an officer.

The temple is dedicated to Vishnu in the form of Kesava. Elevated on a platform terrace (jagati) about 3 feet high, the temple now measures 178 feet by 156 feet. The main temple, known as the Chennakeshava temple or Kesava temple, is situated in the middle of the complex, facing east and positioned in front of the gopuram. The compound is entered from the east through a Gopuram added during the repairs of the Vijayanagar empire era. The Chennakeshava complex at Belur consists of a 443.5 feet by 396 feet court with several Hindu temples and minor shrines inside a walled compound.

To the south of the Kesava temple is the Kappe Chennigaraya temple measuring 124 feet by 105 feet. It has two sanctums inside, one dedicated to Venugopala and the other to Chennigaraya (local popular name of Chennakeshava, Vishnu). The temple is called Kappe Chennigaraya because, according to a local legend, a Kappe (frog) was once found near its navel. This smaller temple was built by the queen concurrently with the main temple and is believed to be a similar smaller version. Unfortunately, the monument is damaged - A stone slab with a couple standing side by side in a namaste posture under a canopy.

To the southwest of the Kesava temple is a small temple dedicated to Somyanayaki, a form of the goddess Lakshmi, also dating back to the 12th century. However, this temple underwent expansion and enhancement in later periods. The Viranarayana temple is also dated to the 12th century and features a navaranga (nine square hall) and a garbha griya (sanctum) with 59 large reliefs on the outer walls. Dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, Bhairava (angry Shiva), Lakshmi, Parvati, Saraswati, and others, these reliefs depict various mythological scenes. This small but complete temple, measuring 70 feet by 56 feet, is located to the west of the Kesava temple.

The Andal temple, also known as the Ranganayaki shrine, is situated to the northwest of the Kesava temple. Its outer walls are adorned with artwork depicting elephants and scenes from nature. The temple showcases 31 large images of deities from the Vaishnavism, Shaivism, and Shaktism traditions of Hinduism. Additionally, it features intricately carved figures of Venugopala, Mohini, and Lakshmi, along with friezes depicting legends from the Puranas. Within the complex, several small shrines are present.

To the east of the Kappe-Chennigaraya temple, shrines for Narasimha, Rama, Jiyar, and Alvars, famous figures from the Bhakti movement, can be found. East of the Andal temple, there are shrines dedicated to Krishna and Vaishnavism scholars Desikar, Bhashyakara, and Ramanuja, known for their contributions to Vishishtadvaita Vedanta. The base of the Alvars' shrines features friezes illustrating stories from the Ramayana. Some of these shrines were added later, as a few scholars like Desikar lived beyond the 12th century.

In the temple complex, two main sthambha (pillars) can be observed. The Garuda sthambha (eagle pillar), facing the main temple, was erected during the Vijayanagar period. On the right side stands the Deepa sthambha (pillar with lamp), dating back to the Hoysala period. A stepped water tank, referred to as kalyani or Vasudeva-sarovara in inscriptions, is located in the northeast corner, adorned with two stone elephants on its side. Adjacent to the Viranarayana temple, there is a mandapa known as the vahana mandapa, traditionally used for storing annual procession ratha and temple vehicles. In the southeast corner of the complex, a kalyana-mandapa was added in the 17th century for ceremonies. In the northwest corner, a granary is present for storing food reserves. Another entrance to the complex, a smaller northern gate, is accompanied by a pakasale or community kitchen built in the 13th century.

Location

The Chennakeshava Temple is situated in Belur taluk in the Hassan district of the Indian state of Karnataka, approximately 35 kilometers northwest of Hassan. It is also about 16 kilometers from the Halebidu temple. Belur does not have a nearby airport, but it is approximately 220 kilometers west of Bengaluru, accessible through a 3.5-hour drive on the four-lane NH75 highway. Hassan, the closest city to Belur, is well-connected by the railway network to major cities in Karnataka. The Chennakeshava Temple is an active Hindu temple and a significant Vaishnava pilgrimage site. It is positioned on the banks of the Yagachi River (historically referred to as the Badari River), a tributary of the Hemavati River.

Address

Shri Chennakeshava Swamy Temple,
Beluru,
Hassan Region,
Karnataka,
India, Pincode: 573115.